(2 minute read)
Made of different diameters and thickness, from different species of corn, loaded with emotion and bond to the primary flavors of a whole country, the corn tortilla is a world in itself and the origin of tacos and garnachas (anything and everything maiz based and topped with something). It is an element that embraces ingredients and different preparations, it is a vehicle that gives whatever is inside a ride to another dimension of flavor and texture. Tortillas hug food and people alike, Mexicans and foreigners, every time we eat it.
It is made of three ingredients: nixtamalized corn, water and salt. Nixtamalization is the process by which the corn grains are ripped from the cobb and submerged in water with lime, the soaking will break it’s structure and then all is ground into an homogenous paste, thick but soft, firm yet malleable. Different amounts of masa are used for different preparations, depending on the size and thickness one wishes to achieve, there is a wide variety of utensils for this purpose, made out of wood or metal, round or square shaped, as for handmade it demands expert hands. A great ability is required to mold evenly with the palm of the hand to obtain a perfect round delicacy. As everything artisanal, it requires sensibility along with technique.
Tortillas are cooked on a grill, a specific utensil for this is called a “comal”, where the heat slowly evaporated the water content of the masa, creating a supple disc that is tender inside and softly firm on the outside. It is turned over and over, being careful not to break it, with your own hands if you are brave or with a spatula for the rest of us. The aroma of a tortilla in the making is salty and toasted, it smells of soil and sun. Its flavor is simple, tasty, and its presence is an element of comfort for all mexicans, here or wherever you are. They are enjoyed any time of the day, used as cutlery, as a side, as the main ingredient and certainly as a Mexican culinary staple.
It is perhaps the equivalent of bread in other cultures, there is always some around, there is never too much of it, leftovers are never a problem, can be had on its own or with a touch of something.
It is usually stuffed, different sauces and garnishes are added, and sometimes you just put anything inside. Although several of us confess to enjoy them on their own, only with a pinch of salt.
This element of Mexico’s food culture is found everywhere in the country. Being a country of contrasts, complexities, large extensions, where at times differences seem enormous, the power of unity of the tortilla is remarkable. Making no differences in area, zip code, economic status or family context, origin, corn tortillas are part of our lives from early childhood, it is present in all meetings, in social or familiar gatherings, and with strangers in a fonda. The diversity one can see in the queue of a Tortilleria (a tortilla shop) is a demonstration of the variety and richness of the Mexican population. Tortillas are the same for everyone. The power inside this food item in a country of so many millions is fascinating.
All Mexicans, born or in feeling, anchor that small corn element to memories. Corn tortillas are the meaning of sharing, amazing mouthfuls, comfort, life. And if it is warm, fresh right out of the comal by loving hands, from someone we love or a stranger on a food stall, then the warm disc becomes an “apapacho”, a hug to the soul.
